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I went to the Grand Canyon in August of 2004. On August 2nd I hiked
from the South Rim down the Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch, then along
the Colorado River to the Bright Angel Trail and up to Indian Gardens,
took a short detour to Plateau Point, returned to Indian Gardens, and
finally back up to the South Rim. It was a mostly overcast day which
made for great hiking, but less than perfect pictures.
The next day I acted like a tourist on the South Rim, stopping at the
various turnouts and overlooks. It was pretty cool to be able to look
down and see where I had been and the trails I had hiked. Unlike the day
before, the skies were clear and so were the pictures. I hope you
enjoy this virtual hike.
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Map of South Rim trails with my shown route in red. 20 miles, 11 hours.
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Me on the 5am shuttle bus from Bright Angel Lodge to the South Kaibab
trailhead. It was actually quite chilly at the time!
I was tired. I arrived at the park at about 11pm last night, having just
finished a two day survival course.
The campground was full, so I ended up sleeping in my car.
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The National Park Service does their best to discourage people from
attempting what I am about to do.
I should probably mention that I run 3 miles a day, and that I spent
the previous week in Phoenix, hiking and getting used to the heat.
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A warning to mere mortals...
My wife made me promise I wouldn't attempt
to hike to the river and back. As my wife, it is her duty to demand
such a promise. And as my wife, she knows this was a promise I would
break. She knowingly shakes her head...
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I added this photo in 2006. I realized my comments above were quite cocky.
They were meant to be in fun. Nevertheless, I would hate to think that I may
contribute in any way to someone experiencing illness or death inside the
Grand Canyon. It does happen as described here:
Margaret died just a few weeks before my hike. Many people attempt a
rim-to-river-to-rim hike every day. Many have no trouble. Please, be in shape,
leave early, carry three times as much water as you think you'll need,
wear a brimmed hat, allow plenty of time, and stay on established trails.
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I began my descent at about 5:30am. Not the best light for photos.
You can see part of the trail I will hike.
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Down, down, down...
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Every step is down...
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Looking back up to the rim.
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I actually had a little rain.
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In truth, I hadn't planned to go to the
river. I was going to go part way down and take the Tonto trail over
to the Bright Angel trail. But with these overcast skies, it seemed
like a great opportunity to hike to the river.
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The trail below Skeleton Point.
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Looking from Skeleton Point to Plateau Point. I will return to the
South Rim via the Bright Angel trail through the wide canyon
below Plateau Point.
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Some parts of this trail are not for the faint of heart.
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First view of the river...still very far away...
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Cliff-hugging trail.
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One of two millipedes I saw on the trail.
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Not even half way down yet. And this is the easy part!
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Natural arch. Do you know the difference between an arch and a bridge?
Answer: A bridge spans water, and arch does not.
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Second of two composting toilets. No water. You actually go to the
second floor to take care of your business!
The Tonto trail crosses the Kaibab trail here.
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Getting closer to the river, but still a long way to go. You can see
the river trail which I will take to the Bright Angel trail.
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The first of two pack trains coming up the Kaibab trail as I was
descending.
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Looking down (almost straight down!) to the silver bridge and
Phantom Ranch.
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Looking down to the black bridge and Phantom Ranch.
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Pack train on the trail, rafts in the river.
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The tunnel which leads to the black bridge.
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Above the black bridge, looking downriver to the silver bridge.
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Emerging from the tunnel onto the black bridge.
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Me on the black bridge.
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On the north shore of the Colorado River, looking up river.
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Indian ruins near the river.
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Indian ruins near the river.
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Bright Angel Creek below Phantom Ranch. A true oasis.
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The phone at Phantom Ranch. No coins. Checking in with the office...Hi Bessie!
Have cheese crackers, will travel.
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The silver bridge.
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Along the river trail with the silver and black bridges in view.
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River resthouse.
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More water than I expected.
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Long climb up. It's just the beginning.
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Twisted landscapes.
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Approaching Indian Gardens.
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Looking back from just before Indian Gardens.
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Enroute to Plateau Point (1.5 miles from Indian Gardens.)
This was the warmest part of the hike: the trail
is fully exposed to the elements.
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Approaching Plateau Point.
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Colorado River and Bright Angel Trail from Plateau Point.
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Bright Angel Trail from Plateau Point.
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Skeleton Point from Plateau Point (I was there this morning.)
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Colorado River from Plateau Point.
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Me at Plateau Point. The last time I was here was 1979, 25 years ago.
Plateau Point hasn't changed, but I have!
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Looking west from Plateau Point.
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Heading back to Indian Garden from Plateau Point.
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Thermometer at Indian Garden.
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Well past Indian Garden on my way to the top. I felt great until
mile 17 when I really bonked...
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Cool...
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Also cool...
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This tunnel is just a hundred yards or so from the top.
I made it!
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Red dust from the Grand Canyon. Fortunately, showers are available
at the campground!
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Begin Day 2
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Plateau Point and a tiny glimpse of the river from the South Rim.
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Kaibab Trail from the South Rim.
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I'll stop talking now and let you just enjoy the scenery...
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My home page at
http://www.billqualls.com
Copyright © 2004 by Bill Qualls.
Last updated March 10, 2006.
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